Winter Riding Tips
By
Layne Simpson
The cyclist who does not dress properly during winter runs the risk of suffering from hypothermia, a condition in which the core temperature of the body drops below a safe level. The choice in clothing must be light enough to avoid causing the body to perspire excessively during a strenuous climb while at the same time it must be heavy enough to keep the body warm on a long descent. Dressing in layers offers the options of shedding a layer or two when the body heats up and putting them back on as the body begins to cool down.
Each inner layer of clothing should be made of a fabric designed to retain heat while wicking perspiration away from the body. Cotton is wonderful for casual wear during summer but it retains moisture and once it is wet any insulating quality it has disappears. A layer of wet cotton clothing against the body actually drains heat from the body, making it worse than no layer at all. Wool is renowned for its ability to retain body heat even when wet and some of the synthetics such as polyester and polypropylene are close to its equal in performance. As a rule, the synthetics are worse about retaining body odor although the latest generation of fabrics that are interwoven with silver are a a big improvment in that respect. Companies offering clothing for cyclists include Pearl Izumi, Nike, Under Armour, Hincapie, Louis Garneau, Descente, Castelli and Gore. Wool cycling clothing is available from www.joneswares.com/, www.wabiwoolens.com
and www.velogear.com.
The outer layer of clothing should be made of a tightly-woven fabric capable of blocking air from the inner layers. A jacket designed for the purpose is ideal and more the better if it can be converted to a vest by zipping off its sleeves. Modern designs have covered vents in the back that block air from entering from the rear while allowing it to circulate through if the cyclist needs to cool down a bit by zipping open the front of the jacket. The jacket should be waterproof (or at least water resistant) and it should have a large rear zippered pocket along with several smaller pockets up front. Cream of the crop in cycling jackets are those made from a fabric containing a Gore-Tex membrane; it prevents wind and water from entering from the outside while allowing body vapor to escape from the inside. For safety sake, I recommend a bright color such as high-visibility yellow or blaze orange.
A great variety of brands and styles of cool and cold weather clothing are available. To better clarify what works for me in the various temperature categories I have specified brands and sources in some cases but am quick to add that others are worthy of consideration. One of the exceptionally good items I have tried is the Gore Windstopper balaclava. Small openings in the nose and mouth area vent hot breath away from eyeglasses and do a fair job of preventing them from fogging up. For keeping the lower body warm I like the AmFIB winter bib tight by Pearl Izumi. It consists of an outer wind-blocking fabric lined with a thin layer of fleece. Since I wear my regular bib shorts beneath the winter tight I use the one without chamois padding. And when it comes to socks, I have found nothing that beats merino wool from the Danner Boot Company.
Shoes designed specifically for cold weather wear are available but I use an old pair of regular cycling shoes that have stretched enough from wear to allow the use of wool socks of medium thickness. Then as the temperature dictates, I add additional exterior protection in the form of neoprene toe covers, thin windproof shoe covers and neoprene booties. When the weather is extremely cold I wear all three, giving me triple insulation over the toes of my shoes.
When that’s not enough, I place a chemical warmer atop the toe area of each shoe and beneath the bootie or shoe cover. If you are not familiar with this modern marvel, it activates when opened and exposed to the air and generates heat for as long as six to eight hours. It consists of a mix of iron powder, salt, activated charcoal and vermiculite contained in a porous bag so as far as I know it is environmentally friendly. Several sizes are available. The one I use measures approximately 2x3 inches and is small enough to squeeze inside a winter glove and beneath shoe covers. I carry an unopened pair of chemical warmers in a pocket to use in an emergency situation.
Installing flat pedals on a road bike and wearing insulated boots designed for hunting or hiking over heavy wool socks is another option. Some designs are also safer than clipless pedals for riding during icy or snowy conditions. Flat pedals used by mountain-bikers for downhill racing are best because short replaceable studs on their surfaces prevent boots from slipping off, even when their soles are wet, muddy or caked with snow. I have used the 5050 pedal from Crank Brothers a lot in snow country and highly recommend it. Gripping studs of two lengths are available for it and while the short version works fine with smooth-soled boots, the long studs are better when wearing boots with lugged soles.
While riding during low temperatures it is especially important to keep body extremities such as the fingers, nose and ears shielded from the air although few cyclists ride when the temperature is low enough and wind velocity is high enough to cause frostbite except during prolonged exposure. For more information on the subject, go to this web address; http://www.accuracyproject.org/WindChill.html
When the temperature drops below the freezing point keep a sharp eye out for patches of ice on the road. If you suddenly find yourself on ice, remain calm and coast straight ahead without braking or pedaling. If you must pedal do so very softly. Also remember to be especially alert in automobile traffic when wearing a helmet liner or balaclava covering the ears as it can muffle the sound of traffic approaching from behind.
Not a lot has to be done to a bike to winterize it but if the mercury drops low enough, a derailleur can become a bit sluggish if its joints are lubed with a product not designed for low-temp use. I use RemOil from Remington on my bikes and have never had it freeze up. A mountain bike wearing knobby tires is better for riding in snow but should you choose to do so on a road bike seriously consider installing cyclocross tires and leave the slicks at home. But before buying a set make sure your bike has enough frame clearance to handle them.
The ability to comfortably withstand cold weather differs from person to person and what might be too much clothing for one may be insufficient for another. I know cold-natured cyclists who are comfortable while wearing clothing heavy enough to cause warm-natured cyclists to boil in their own sweat. For this reason, recommendations in the below temperature categories are to be used only as a guide. Only through trial and error will the individual cyclist learn what works best.
The guidelines are intended for road biking. Less clothing is usually needed for mountain biking due to slower average speeds and more exertion on the part of the rider. A lot of mountain biking also takes place in hilly, wooded terrain where the trails are better protected from wind. When riding in an area with water crossings I often wear waterproof socks that are available from most hiking and backpacking shops. If the stream I am about to cross is too deep for them, I have two options. One is to pull plastic bags over my feet and pedal across. The small bag the newspaper delivery guy places a rolled-up paper inside before flinging it in the general direction of your home on a rainy day works great and takes up very little room in a hydration pack. Another option that will get you to the far side rather briskly is to remove shoes and socks and wade across barefoot. A small towel carried in the hydration pack is nice to have for drying off prior to putting shoes and socks back on.
Here's to warm cycling,
Layne Simpson
DOWN TO 50 DEGREES
(Head)
Helmet only but add a thin helmet liner if breezy
(Upper Body)
Long-sleeve base layer (Under Armour Heat Gear)
Long-sleeve jersey
Wind-resistant vest--a jacket with zip-off sleeves is nice
(Lower Body)
Bib shorts
Leg warmers
(Hands)
Regular fingerless cycling gloves over thin polypro liner
(Feet)
Medium-weight socks (Danner merino wool)
Neoprene toe warmers (Specialized)
DOWN TO 40 DEGREES
(Head)
Thin liner beneath helmet
(Upper Body)
Light short-sleeve base layer (Under Armour Heat Gear)
Light long-sleeve base layer (Under Armour Heat Gear)
Long-sleeve jersey
Wind-resistant vest---or jacket
(Lower Body)
Bib shorts
Leg Warmers
Lightweight runner’s tights (Under Armour) over leg warmers
(Hands)
Regular gloves over thin polypro liner
(Feet)
Medium-weight wool socks
Thin Cordura shoe covers (Slipstream by DeFeet)
Neoprene toe warmers
DOWN TO 30 DEGREES
(Head)
Light balaclava beneath helmet (Gore Windstopper)
(Upper Body)
Light long-sleeve base layer (Under Armour Heat Gear)
Medium-weight layer (Under Armour Heat Gear)
Long-sleeve jersey
Wind-resistant jacket
(Lower Body)
Bib shorts
Leg warmers
Thin full-length base layer (Under Armour) over leg warmers
Lightweight runner’s tights over base layer
(Hands)
Winter gloves over polypro liner
(Feet)
Medium-weight wool socks
Thin shoe covers
Toe Warmers
Neoprene booties (Specialized)
BELOW 30 DEGREES
(Head)
Heavier balaclava beneath helmet (SmartWool)
(Upper Body)
Medium-weight long-sleeve base layer (Under Armour Heat Gear)
Heavy-weight layer (Under Armour Heat Gear)
Long-sleeve jersey
Wind-resistant jacket over wind-resistant vest
(Lower Body)
Bib shorts
Leg warmers
Thin base layer over leg warmers
Bib tight without chamois (Pearl Izumi AmFIB)
(Hands)
Winter gloves over thin polypro liners, chemical warmers inside
(Feet)
Medium-weight wool socks
Thin shoe covers
Toe warmers over shoe covers
Chemical warmers (placed atop toes of shoes beneath toe warmers)
Neoprene booties over all